Cascais to Sines

Another dawn departure and a beautiful sunny day!  We were able to sail much of the way as we had good winds and following swells.  In fact, it was so beautiful and stable both Tad and I spent much of the afternoon on the foredeck in the sunshine.

It was a pretty uneventful day and we did not go ashore in Sines so this is a good opportunity to tell you a little about some of the ‘mod cons’ on our little floating home.

Our main energy comes from the solar panel array that Tad spent so much time (and money!) on in La Rochelle – it has paid off in dividends.  Although we are recharging the batteries whenever we motor (which has been more than we anticipated), the solar is keeping up with our use while at anchor.

Our water-maker (essentially a desalinator) is a godsend – we make about 65 litres of fresh water from seawater every hour that it is running and we usually run it for at least a couple of hours daily to top off the tanks.  In fact, we have not needed to take on water since we filled up in A Coruña 10 days ago!  This is in spite of the fact that we both have daily hot showers and of course wash dishes as well as do laundry.  We have found that the watermaker functions fine on just solar power as well which means that we will be able to have water even at anchor should we need it!

On the subject of laundry, our one indulgence was to install a washing machine.  It is a Bosch front-loader and quite simply the most efficient machine ever invented!  It can function on an array of settings and heats its own water which has both advantages and disadvantages: the advantage is that it doesn’t use our hot water supply (which is not huge at 40 litres and is only heated when we run the engines at this point), but the disadvantage is that to use one of the settings that involved heated water needs shore power as it is too much for our inverter.  The cold water setting uses less water than a shower!  I began our journey by separating the clothes into lights/whites and darks/coloured, but soon realized that all our clothes are well-used and mixing them in cold water really doesn’t hurt them.  Plus the fact that I like to fill the machine with each load and we generally do not have enough of one or the other of the wash categories to make enough for two loads.  The exception is our bedding – having a queen-sized bed with flat sheet, fitted sheet and doona cover (REALLY holding out to put the doona away once we reach warmer climes!) means at least two loads as the machine will hold only 7kg worth of washing at a time. This means that towels also need to be done separately.  The machine is wonderfully efficient in its use of water as well as spinning things to within a short distance of being dry.  Once washed, I take the clean laundry and hang it in our enclosed helm station (aka “Pope Mobile” as that it what it looks like), where it dries within a very short time during the day or overnight if we are at anchor or in a marina.  The beauty of hanging up the laundry in the “Pope Mobile” is that it is not obvious to the outside world that Robin’s Laundromat is in action, whereas we see plenty of boats with all their undies and socks and t-shirts hanging along their rails.  Of course the sheets and towels are a different matter and need to be hung to dry on either the genoa sheets (ropes for the uninitiated) or the gennaker sheets on the foredeck.

Our stove and oven are gas – here in Europe they use butane or propane which burns hotter than LPG and so things cook very quickly, which I suppose means using less gas.  The downside of the gas here is that it is only universally available in small blue ‘camping gaz’ containers of about 9L.  As we also have a gas-powered BBQ brought with us from Australia, we have two gas bottles but they do seem to last rather a long time in spite of being used daily.

We also have a freezer and two fridges – this may seem a luxury but we are managing with the power that we have. The freezer was a decision primarily to be able to stock up on meat and frozen goods for a long passage (eg. Crossing the Atlantic); the inside fridge is a two-drawer device which works really well and has plenty of room for fruit, veggies and other items needing to be chilled.  We use the smaller bar-type fridge in the cockpit area for our water and beer and this actually gets turned off at night to conserve energy. It is still managing to keep our water and beer cool!

The main consumer of energy (other than the fridges and freezer) is the electronics; the navigation system (Ray, short for the make Raymarine) and the autopilot (Otto).  As they are on pretty much all the time, they drain our batteries the most.  We do switch them off at night once we are anchored/moored/berthed.  Our internal lights for the boat are LED and so consume very little energy, however we do have an electric ‘head’ (toilet for the non-boaties out there) in the master ensuite.  This was a ‘treat’ for me from Tad so that I would not have to pump each time I used the toilet.  Those of you who have used a boat toilet would understand what a luxury this is.

Charging phones, computers, etc. usually happens when motoring as well, although there is no problem doing it while sailing as long as we have lots of sun to top up the batteries!

We have an electric winch which we use to raise the mainsail, and an electric windlass to raise/lower the anchor but that is the extent of our electronic gadgets.  Most of the boat is still ‘manual’ enough to keep us busy but ‘automatic’ enough to make it fun and relatively simple.

Sines is a pretty little harbour with a lovely new marina office – clean spacious showers and toilets and an ATM in the office which is very convenient.  We did not spot any restaurants near the beach although there was a bar/café on the beach where we anchored.  Even though the wind blew strongly until the wee hours, we felt very secure and comfortable.

                             The fortress above the beach at Sines - where Vasco da Gama was born

                                                       The harbour of Sines at dawn

Overnight to Cascais

The day dawned cool, damp and overcast – not the best weather to head out in, but the forecast was for northwesterlies and we had to keep going.  We had decided to do a long haul passage to Cascais to gain some ground and try and get south sooner, so after taking on fuel at the pristine fuel dock of Marina Douro, and obtaining our fresh bread rolls for breakfast (we had them as sandwiches for lunch), we headed out to sea.

The winds decided to co-operate today and we had good 15-20 knot winds to help us along for the first few hours.  In fact we were able to sail most of the day which would have been really pleasant had the sun been out and the sea not a complete washing-machine!  For the first time since our Bay of Biscay crossing I felt really unwell and spent most of the day dozing on and off – luckily for me, Tad was able to stand watch (Otto and Ray, our loyal autopilot and chart plotter do most of the work as long as you give them the correct instructions) at the helm so I had the luxury of trying to sleep off my sickness.  We saw very little in the way of other boats, except for the odd fishing vessels, but lots of fish/crab pots.  We are not sure exactly what they are, but the Spanish and Portuguese have floats with a stick and a flag (often the flags have blown away making these very difficult to see until you are on top of them!) on them, indicating some sort of net/pot for catching some sort of sea life.  They can be as deep as 90m in some places, but are often located in the vicinity of a fishing port (as much as 5-7Nm out to sea). During the day, one can make an effort not to drive over the top of them (a problem if your propeller becomes entangled in the rope), but at night they are virtually impossible to avoid.  You just keep your fingers crossed if you go over them that they come out the other side and keep going!

I had the first watch from sunset to midnight and was treated to a short visit by common dolphins – our first for some time.  They didn’t stick around very long but it cheered me up.  I caught a glimpse of the sun as it sank towards the sea through a pocket in the clouds and then it was gone.  It was a very quiet night with absolutely nothing in sight either visually or on the radar.  Tad took us through a rather challenging passage between Cabo Carvoeiro and a group of rocks offshore – challenging because there were a number of fishing boats parked in the area that he had to avoid – during his watch, but when I awoke for my next watch at 4am all I could see was a long row of coastal lights until dawn broke.

We arrived in Cascais about 2pm and found a lovely anchorage off one of the beaches.  There were a few other sailboats already anchored there and the pilot guide indicated a sandy bottom so it didn’t take long for us to be secured.  There was a good wind blowing (of course, now that we weren’t going anywere!) and so we waited on board for a little while to reassure ourselves that we were well dug in. 

I have to say that anchoring is a good deal less stressful than berthing in a marina but I guess it’s just what you get used to as well.  There isn’t much to crash into when you are anchoring (other than the boats around you and perhaps a cliff or two, but generally these are at some distance if you are lucky), and it’s just a matter of making sure that the anchor will hold. In a marina, everything seems very close and ready to make a big dent in your hull should you misjudge!

Wanting to do the ‘right thing’ we went ashore to the marina office with our papers, but the staff could not have been less interested.  We were informed that unless we were staying at the marina they had no need to see our passports or paperwork! The attendant suggested that we might like to call the marine police on VHF 16 so that they could check to see that our anchorage was okay, but we didn’t bother.  We figured that if they were concerned they would come and find us!

Walking into town was delightful – mainly because the sun was shining and even though there was a good wind blowing, it was warm!  The cobblestoned pavement was worn smooth by countless footsteps and the buildings were brightly painted and decorated.  Clearly a tourist destination, there were a plethora of restaurants, cafes and beach-type shops with souvenirs.  We located a supermarket to buy a few provisions, a post office to purchase stamps for postcards and then just wandered. There seemed to be quite a few English people around and of course Tad had to stop at one of the Irish pubs showing the World Cup soccer!

Having a relaxed BBQ dinner on the boat in the sun was a treat and after plotting the next day’s course it was time for a good night’s sleep.

                                   View of Bisou from ashore at Cascais (Praia de la Rainha)

                                     One of the many shopping streets in the Old Town

                                                    The main square on the waterfront

Our anchorage in Cascais

Porto, Portugal

Leaving Baiona at dawn, once again (I don’t think I have seen as many sunrises in my whole life as I have on this trip so far!) we motor-sailed our way south.  In spite of all the weather forecasts for west to northwesterly winds, we had south to southwesterlies all the way!  However as they were no strong, we were able to motor and use some sail along the way.  The weather was overcast and cool but the sun did try and pop through once or twice.

We reached the mouth of the Douro by late afternoon and were somewhat concerned about the tide, as the pilot book had indicated that it could run 6-7 knots at peak ebb or flood.  Fortunately, we had arrived when the river was in its last couple of hours of ebb so although our engines had to work harder at the mouth of the river, once we got around the breakwater we were fine. 

The river has been dredged in recent times and a brand new marina on the Gaia side of Porto awaited us.  Some of our Aussie friends had already checked it out and raved about it so we felt it was worth a stop.  In addition, I have some long-lost ‘relatives’ (I put that in inverted commas as they are distant relatives by marriage only, but perfectly wonderful people) who live in Porto, and in fact have been in the port-wine business for 150 years so it was worth checking out.

The rain started to spatter our windscreen as we approached the visitors’ dock but the marina attendant couldn’t do enough for us.  We had Bisou tied off and berthed alongside the pontoon within minutes of arriving and I was on the marina dinghy going to the office to register our arrival into Portugal, a short time later.

Another Aussie friend had suggested that we make photocopies of all the important documents (passports, boat registration papers and insurance documents) ahead of time to give to all the marinas and this has paid off!  Not only are the marinas thrilled with not having to do it themselves, it saves time if all you have to do is fill in their arrival form.  No one seemed too interested in seeing our actual passports (same in Spain) so we didn’t pursue it.  As long as everyone is as disinterested in these people in our arrival date in Schengen Europe, we’ll be fine!

We had arrived into Porto on one of the biggest festival days in Portugal – the feast of Sao Joao (St John the Baptist).  Loud music (including heavy base) was coming across the river and from our side as well.  When we ventured outside the marina in search of some dinner awhile later, a real carnival atmosphere greeted our eyes.  Stands had been set up all along the road – mostly food – including ‘farturas’ (very similar to churros but fatter and softer and very yummy!), clothes, toys and games (dodgem cars, roller coasters, etc.).  My relatives had told us there would be fireworks and this was confirmed by the marina staff however we didn’t know what time they would be on.

Food was foremost on our minds at that stage and although the area is surrounded by fish restaurants, we decided to eat like the locals in one of the pop-up restaurants created for the festival.  Fresh sardines were being grilled outside the marquee which served as the restaurant and already at 8:30pm a queue was beginning to form.  We also saw chicken and pork being cooked so we knew that we could have something other than fish if we wanted.

Eventually our turn arrived to be seated in the chaos indoors and we luckily had a waiter who spoke a smattering of English (mixed with German and French – both of which I understand so could comprehend what he was saying).  We ordered some pork ribs and pork ‘schnitzel’ (unbreaded) as well as a salad and a couple of beers.  After seeing others ordering sangria and wine we realized that would have been a better option.  I would have liked sardines, but they were large and the half portion was already 5 sardines which would have been too much for me.

When our food arrived, we were astonished at the amount – Tad had ordered the ribs (a full portion) which would have been plenty for both of us.  My pork steaks were only a half portion but they came with chips and again, would have been plenty for both of us!  The salad and bread on top of it all, plus the beers meant that we literally waddled away from the table. What was even more pleasing was the price – really great value compared with what we would have paid for the same meal at home.

We wandered up river towards the bridge where the fireworks were to be held and waited until almost 11pm by which time we were practically falling asleep sitting down.  At the time we didn’t know it, but the fireworks were to be at midnight and as it turned out we were in bed fast asleep by then.  So we headed back to the marina via a fartura stand (where we indulged in a very large portion of these sweet doughy delights – only because we didn’t know we could get a smaller amount had we asked for it) and then to bed!  There was very loud music being played all around us and we wondered whether we would ever get to sleep but both of us had no problem sleeping until 8:30am the next morning when our alarm woke us.

One of the nice treats that Marina Douro in Porto offers its guests is fresh bread rolls, delivered to the boat, each morning.  Of course we had our delicious Isalean shakes to get us started, but that didn’t stop us from enjoying  a bread roll as well!  I made contact with Alistair and Gillyanne Robertson, my relatives and we arranged that they would come to the marina to collect us and take us back to their place for lunch.  In the meantime, we checked on our emails, got ourselves somewhat respectably attired and awaited their arrival.  Alistair took over the family port-wine business that he inherited from his uncle and godfather who had no children of his own – although Alistair was born in Portugal (to a Portuguese mother and British father) and spent many summers here during his youth, he was educated in England and joined the British army.  He and Gillyanne were living in Scotland in the ‘60s when his uncle asked him to come and try his hand at operating the port-wine business.  He stayed and with Gillyanne had three daughters, one of whom became an expert ‘taster’ and who, with her husband, is still involved in the business.  Alistair and Gillyanne have stayed on in Porto, renovated a derelict monastery into a stunning home and farm, and grow kiwi fruit as a hobby/business in their retirement.

When they arrived to collect us, we of course had to introduce them to Bisou and show off our home on the water. As it happened, the start of the famous Sao Joao day boat race up the river was about to start right outside the marina, so we sat and waited and watched.  When it was time to depart, however, it made for chaotic driving as we attempted to get out of the marina area.

Arriving at “Quinta des Frades” (I think that is what it was called) was breathtaking – although the day was somewhat overcast and drizzling, the stunning landscape of fresh greenery, trees, a little stream, a small lake and then the house as we wound up the long driveway left us both speechless.  I am sure that Alistair and Gillyanne are quite used to this reaction of their visitors, and probably enjoy it – they both worked very hard to create the lovely estate on which they now live.

We had a quick tour of the house (which was the monastery) and the adjoining church (no longer in use but which has been cleverly landscaped into an attractive and peaceful garden feature) before lunch was ready.  Words really cannot begin to describe the flow and detail of the Robertsons’ home and gardens – replete with antiques, both inherited and purchased, the colours and textures of the walls and coverings are rich and yet not overstated.  We ate at a small table and were treated to a history of port-wine and how it is made.  Of course we were also treated to several tastings!  We began with a local Douro red wine which was reminiscent of an aged Cabernet but softer and less dry – we then followed this with a Taylors 20 year old port wine with dessert.  Very smooth and it went well with our apple strudel – finally we tasted a younger (and very deep ruby) port wine, only 4-6 years old, but which went well partnered with some dark chocolate.  Neither Tad nor I have been a fan of port-wine prior to this occasion and I must say you can really taste the difference between something good and the mass-produced stuff normally consumed.  I am not sure whether I would become a regular consumer, but now that I know what to buy, I would certainly consider keeping some on hand for a treat now and then.

All too soon it was time to head out, and we hitched a ride with Natasha (the eldest daughter whose husband is now running the family business) to the family-owned Yeatman Hotel, one of the only 5* hotels in Portugal to also have a Michelin-starred restaurant.  Tash graciously gave us the grand tour, indicating the input both her mother and husband had had in designing as well as decorating the facility.  The view over the Old Town is stunning and the hotel is located in the port lodge area so that walking to the various tasting sites takes only minutes on foot (the only disadvantage is that you have to walk uphill to get back!).  Definitely a hotel to consider for upmarket clients looking to have a uniquely luxurious experience in Porto.

We walked slowly back the marina, with the crowds building once again for a festive evening.  Having eaten and drunk way too much over the previous 24hrs we decided to have a quiet evening with just a shake for dinner and get to bed for an early start the next day.  We planned to make the 30 hour passage to Cascais in one hop which would necessitate an overnight, so we needed a good night’s sleep.

                                                  Fresh sardines ready for grilling!

The Ponte da Arrabida over the Douro River

                                       The old church (minus roof) at the renovated monastery

                                     The outdoor pool and gardens complete with pet peacock

                                        View from the main lounge at the Yeatman Hotel Porto

                                         View of Porto's Old Town from the river walkway

Baiona (42 ° 07’N 08 ° 50’ W)

For the first time in over two weeks we saw rain clouds on waking.  Although it didn’t rain much, we had a bit of a downpour while walking back from the Old Town in Baiona.

The tourist information booth near the marina was very helpful with a map and a walking guide for various places of historical interest including one of the Old Town so off we set.  The town/city has been well-preserved with the narrow streets, stone buildings and everything very neat and tidy.  Certainly not the plethora of ‘eateries’ that we encountered in A Coruña but plenty of restaurants around every corner if you cared to have something to eat.  The prices, being a tourist destination, were a good deal higher, however, with seafood and fish being at a premium.  We were glad that we ate as well and as cheaply as we did in A  Coruña.

One of the things that strikes you in Europe is the sheer antiquity of the buildings – coming from a relatively ‘new’ country like Australia, where we think that cities and buildings from the 1800s are a big deal, it is quite sobering to look at churches and other buildings constructed in the 12^th – 15^th centuries still standing and functional.  Of course in many cases ‘renovations’ have occurred in more ‘recent’ times as late as the 18^th century, but it is still mind-boggling to contemplate people working stone to the extent that they did with hand tools only.

The other thing that we remarked was the proliferation of churches and chapels – they are everywhere!  It’s hard to believe that there were enough people in the town to fill all these places and certainly today many of them are closed except on specific feast days or special occasions like Easter/ Christmas.

In contrast to the other towns we have been in so far, Baiona is quite hilly.  We did not take our bikes off the boat here for a couple of reasons: firstly, the way we were berthed in the marina took some serious climbing skills to get on and off the boat from the bow, and secondly, we felt that we could pretty easily walk where we wanted to.

We were not tempted to visit the many beaches in the area due to the weather, however on the second afternoon we decided to take the dinghy to the nearest beach, somewhat protected from the wind by the Parador (fortress) overlooking the town.  We did have a couple of hours of glorious sunshine and it actually got quite hot which was a real treat.  The water temperature remains cool though so other than a walk at the water’s edge to get in and out of the dinghy, we didn’t venture in for a swim (unlike the locals who frolicked happily in the water playing ball and swimming laps across the beach!).

The walk around the parador is quite remarkable and the hotel (paradores) situated at the top is lovely with spectacular views.  Again, it is mind-boggling to think that this fortress has been here for 500 or 600 years and that battles were fought here over the ages.  Apparently it is has been a fortress since Roman times.

Our final afternoon in Baiona, we met another Aussie family from Fremantle, aboard a Dufour 40 “Songbird”; Shariane, Stuart and their son Jack were following the same route as we are and we joined them for a farewell drink in the members’ restaurant on our last evening, promising to catch up further south or in the Mediterranean (well, we have to as we owe them a drink!).

It’s difficult going to bed when it’s still light out – even at 10:30pm but we needed to get a good night’s sleep before another dawn departure the next day.

                                        The mighty fortress at Baiona (Parador de Montereal)

                             View from the Old Town looking back at the marinas and Montereal

 Replica of Christopher Columbus' "Pinta" which arrived back from the New World on 1st March 1493 (the Nina went straight to Lisbon)

                                       One of the beautiful churches in the Old Town of Bayonne