Sunday, 6 December 2015

GREECE - Heading Home

For my faithful followers, I apologise for the delay in posting the final blog for the season.  As you will read further below, the last week of our time in Greece was rather frantic and then the weeks that followed very busy, so that it has taken me up until almost Christmas to close the blog of Bisou for the 2015 season.

So, let’s head back to Bungalow Bay where we had installed ourselves for a few days to begin dismantling Bisou.  The weather was kind to us as we washed, dried and put away our sails – the halyards and sheets came down next and all was going smoothly.  With a date at Cleopatra Marina in Preveza already set to haul Bisou, we headed up to Levkas Harbour to have some warranty work done on the rigging.  In usual Greek fashion, nothing happens quickly, but by early afternoon on the Tuesday, we were all set to head north to Preveza through the Levkas canal bridge…only to discover that it was broken!  Now let me explain.  The Levkas canal is a fairly narrow channel that connects the island of Levkas with the mainland – there is one bridge which is made up of an old barge and a lever arm bridge.  The lever arm bridge is just wide enough for most mono-hulled boats while the whole barge and lever arm will swing open most of the time for all the boat traffic in the summer (this opens the canal to ¾ of its width which is plenty for most boats – nothing huge like cruise ships or anything).  It seems that the barge part of the bridge was broken but the lever arm part was still working.  Catamarans were being forced to round the island of Levkas (about 60 nautical miles versus the 7 or so nautical miles through the canal) to reach Preveza.  Cursing, but pleased that we had not left things until the last minute, we decided to head south around the island and complete the journey in two hops – because we had already taken down all the sails and soft rigging, we would have to motor the whole way which was frustrating but what could we do!  Off we set, but about one hour into the journey, the starboard engine started acting up, rapidly losing power when we tried to engage the forward gear.  We stopped in the middle of the inland waterway (just east of Nidri) to try and work out what was going on.  Tad even jumped into the water to take a look to see if we had hooked some rope or fishing line.  Realising that there was no way we were going to risk motoring some 60nm on one engine with no sails to back us up, we limped back to Levkas harbour with our port engine and called up the people who had completed the 500 hour service just a couple of weeks before.

By this time it was too late for the mechanics to come to the boat so we were scheduled for “first thing” (translated to “about 10:30am”) the next morning. Much as we hate to be in a harbour or marina overnight, we were forced to stay over this time in order to get the engine fixed.

The next morning (Wednesday by this time) the mechanics arrived and had a quick look at the starboard engine – finding nothing out of the ordinary they had us start the engine.  Still nothing noticeable so we put her into gear (a little challenging since we were tied to the harbour wall) and tried revving the engine.  Still nothing!  This went on for some time with no noticeable problem or change in power – typical!  After a frustrating couple of hours looking at every possible thing (don’t ask me to name all the bits and pieces that were investigated!) the mechanics shook their heads and said that we should just head out and if there was a problem to call them and they would come and ‘rescue’ us on their RIB (rigid inflatable boat) purpose-built for such emergencies.

By this time it was noon and we knew we had to get going – as we headed out of the harbour Tad suggested that we motor up to the bridge to see if it was fixed yet.  As we approached the bridge I hailed the bridge operator on the VHF radio to ask if the ‘large bridge’ was opening. The operator said that it was still broken but asked how wide we were – I replied that our beam was 7.4m and he said that the gap served by the lever arm bridge was 9m.  Tad and I looked at each other and wondered if we should chance it?  There was little to no wind, no current and the distance we would have to cover was about 50m.  The catch was that as there was construction being carried out on the north side of the canal there was a barge on the port side, which meant that before we were through the bridge, we would have to veer to starboard right at the end.  We decided that it was worth taking a shot at, and Tad said that we would wait and go last so that if he had to back out at the last moment we would have room to do so.

                                       
                                                      The Levkas Canal (big bridge open)

I don’t think my heart has ever beat as hard or as fast as it did on our approach to the gap – with barely 800mm (32 inches) on either side of Bisou, Tad must have had nerves of steel to guide us through.  We did have some small fenders out to ‘protect’ us but they wouldn’t have done much good against the concrete on one side and the steel on the other!  We glided into the channel and were moving beautifully until Tad started to turn, I ran to the aft port side to watch our rear end against the concreted and with an audience of several car drivers holding their breath pushed hard against the wall to keep us off, just missing our aft sugar scoop by millimetres!  We were through!  Our gutsiness paid off!  We arrived at the marina an hour later still on a high from the thrill of squeezing through the gap of the Levkas canal!  Don’t ever ask me to do that again.


                                      
The Levkas Canal with the lever arm bridge open just to the right hand side of the photo   (N.B. This was NOT taken while we were squeezing through but an earlier time when the big bridge was open!)
   
The excitement was not over, however, as those who have ‘parked’ in Cleopatra Marina know, there is a considerable current in the water and not a great deal of space in which to manoeuver into your berth.  Fortunately, the marinero is there with his RIB (yes, another high powered inflatable dinghy) to push your back or front end and help you slide in without hitting anything.  Tad is the world’s best driver when it comes to Bisou, and before long we were safely tied up in our berth at the marina.  We needed a stiff drink after that!

The next day was spent putting more things away on the inside of the boat as well as taking down the canvas ‘clears’ around the cockpit.  It was a busy day but we had a fun dinner at a local taverna with friends that night as our reward.

Friday morning, on schedule, Bisou was lifted and trailored to her wintering spot in the boatyard.  From the time she was parked until we departed from Preveza on Sunday afternoon, we worked like slaves to get her cleaned, packed up and ready for a long rest over winter.  We were exhausted by the time we got on the bus to Athens (a 6 hour drive) and checked into our hotel at the airport.  A good night’s sleep saw us walk across to the airport the next morning and head home via Singapore.

Hopefully Bisou is keeping dry and clean with her custom cover made in Tunisia and everything packed away neatly.  We don’t have the wonderful ‘guardianage’ service that we enjoyed from Mick and Jo in Hammamet last year, but we hope that by being out of the water and in a secure boat yard everything will be okay.

Our plan is to head back early May to drop off a load of gear and then head to the USA to see Patrick (the youngest son) graduate from University and visit family.  We’ll be back in Greece by the end of May to do some necessary work on the boat (anti-fouling, adding a couple of cleats, etc.) and then hopefully launch by the beginning of June to set sail.  Of course we will be watching to see how things pan out in Turkey but the Aegean is definitely in the plans for next year.


In the meantime, your blogger is taking a break while enjoying summer back in Shoal Bay, Australia!  We are not sitting around though as we have work to do on the house…no rest of the wicked!  Thank you for following the adventures of Tad and Robin on Bisou and we look forward to your readership again in 2016.

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