Sunday, 10 July 2016

Into the Saronic Sea

We woke early for our 20nm trip to the Corinth Canal – we wanted to get there as early as possible to avoid congestion as well as to avoid the afternoon winds which can pick up and blow you either through the Canal or against you.  As it was, we had a fairly smooth motor that morning and arrived at the entrance to the canal by about 11:30am, together with a large motor yacht and a Romanian Coast Guard vessel.  Because the Romanian Coast Guard vessel was required to  complete some paperwork, we had to wait for the pilot boat to come through from the other side, and the paperwork to be completed before we could go through so it was 1pm before we began our journey.  By this time, of course, the wind had picked up so that we had a good 15 knots on our nose going through the canal.  As you arrive at either entrance, you are required to notify (by VHF radio) the Canal authorities of your desire to transit the Canal.  They will queue you up (according to their method) and you follow the boat in front as quickly as you can.  Payment is made at the eastern end of the Canal either before you transit (if coming from the east) or after you transit (if coming from the west) and it’s not cheap!  Apparently the Corinth Canal is the most expensive (dollar per metre) transit point in the world.  Not surprisingly, it is closed one day a week (Tuesdays) from 6am to 6pm for repairs, and as we motored along we could see why.  The cliffs are crumbling, the walls at the base are eroding and it’s pretty narrow.  It must be a real nail-biter for boats any wider than ours (and there were several cargo ships considerably larger than our boat).  We were last in the queue for our crossing and the radio authority kept telling us to hurry up as there were boats waiting to come through on the other side.  We didn’t take it personally as he did the same thing for the last boat coming the other way as we were waiting.  It was an awesome experience and Tad guided Bisou safely to the other side where we had a bit of a scramble to get a place alongside the wharf to pay our transit fee.  By this time it was afternoon and we needed to find a place to anchor for the night – we had anticipated a northwesterly (prevailing wind) but the wind was blowing from the southeast and so we headed south to look for somewhere safe and calm.


The rail and road bridges of the Corinth Canal


The sheer cliff sides of the canal


Bison negotiating the last bit of the canal




As I have stated previously, we rely heavily on both our electronic charts (Raymarine) as well as the pilot guides (like travel guides but for cruisers) for information regarding anchorages.  Unfortunately the pilot guides are rarely up to date (ours is 3 years old) and so much can change in a short time.  The bay we chose to anchor in was much too deep for us (the chart showed sand and shallower close to shore) but luckily there were large moorings which did not seem to be used.  There were some fishing boats and another ferry/barge type of vessel moored nearby; the bay was very protected and we figured that we would be pretty safe on the large mooring with little or no wind, as long as some boat didn’t come along and want it back!



Our mooring among the fishing boats


A lovely sunset to end the day


There was a nice pebble beach ashore with some local young men camping, as well as a bunch of parked cars. Later in the day we discovered that the cars belonged to fish farm workers that came ashore on one of the barge-type boats that are used to carry the feed out to the fish.  They proceeded to moor on another couple of moorings (not ours) so we were secure for the night.  We celebrated by having a sunset cruise around the bay in our dinghy with a glass each of our favourite ‘apero’ Amarula (from Africa).  It was a lovely calm evening and night and we slept well after a long day.



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