Thursday, 13 July 2017

Travels in Turkey: Exploring Fethiye and Göçek Korfezi (Part 1)

I had been watching the weather forecast (as I do!) on PredictWind and they were forecasting some strong winds in the area for later in the week and so we decided to spend the next day sailing and motoring around the area to find a good place to ‘hide’ should the weather prove inclement.  Looking for shelter from a northwesterly (the prevailing afternoon winds in this area come from the south to southwest, while the morning light winds are generally from the east) proved challenging and we headed over towards Fethiye to see what we could find.  We thought the bay and beach area of Battikaya Bükü would work until we tried to anchor there – after three attempts at getting our anchor to hold (and hauling up gross quantities of weed and pine needles, and soft mud) we gave up and motored over to Fethiye Adasi, a small island in the mouth of the entrance to Fethiye.  It was peaceful and a good place to stay the night with good holding in 10m of water. 

Now it was time to start exploring what we had been told was one of the loveliest areas of the south coast of Turkey, the Göçek Korfezi or the body of water around and south of Göçek.  This is a fairly large area with many lovely bays and inlets as well as several islands around which you can anchor or moor stern-to.  This is also a protected area and, according to the pilot guide (and some yachties) the authorities are quite strict on how long you can stay in any one area as well as disposal of rubbish and sewage.  The restricted areas (supposedly no anchoring) seemed to be non-existent while we were there (from the point of view that we never saw any maritime authority surveying the area or patrolling for offenders), but that is not to say they were not there somewhere.  In speaking with the locals, I was told that the coast guard ‘watch’ from a distance, out of sight, through their binoculars, and then pounce on you when you least suspect it!  Having also heard a couple of nightmare stories from Australian yachties who were heavily fined for not having their holding tanks pumped out often enough (a totally subjective viewpoint in spite of evidence by our friends to the contrary), we decided to play it safe while in Turkey and had our tanks pumped out every two weeks like clockwork (whether they needed it or not!).  In this particular area (and a couple of other large bays eg. Marmaris) where there are many inlets and the nearest pump out station is fairly distant, there are pump out boats that will come to you and remove your waste either for free or a small fee.  You simply call them up and they come out!  Great service and pretty essential if you plan to stay in the area for any length of time as you are absolutely not permitted to empty your holding tanks anywhere in Turkish waters (see Blue Card blog).

Our first visit was to Yassica Adalari, towards the middle of the island – we moored stern-to and tied to a couple of bollards.  Our anchor was dropped in about 22m of water, barely 40m out from the shore, but the sea floor rises steeply around here so you don’t need to have as much scope as you would in shallower, less steep ocean floor.  We found a nice little cove, mostly protected from the prevailing wind (which really only rises in the afternoon and not strong), and enjoyed a relatively quiet afternoon and evening.  I say, ‘relatively’ as there are always the Turkish ‘gulets’ (large wooden sailboats – picture pirate-type vessels) full of either local or foreign tourists, ploughing through anchorages with music blaring, to disgorge tens of passengers into the water for a short time and then zoom off again.  Because there are a few narrow and shallow passages around this particular island, it was not too bad. 

One of the nice things about this area is that there are plenty of rubbish bins everywhere that seem to be emptied regularly – this no doubt helps the reduce the rubbish in the water and on land (as well as providing a convenient place for yachties to leave their rubbish) but we did worry a little about rats.  Fortunately we had purchased rat guards and used them diligently whenever tethered to land in any way.

Another charming feature of this area is the supermarket boats – there are three altogether including Migros, Carrefour and some other no-name brand.  These are fairly large motor vessels which come out almost daily in the late afternoon, honk  their horn to alert their presence and wait for yachties to race out in their dinghies.  We went aboard the Migros boat a couple of times – the fresh produce wasn’t great, but good choice of other items and the prices the same as in town.  Wonderfully convenient for those who shy away from going into town too frequently.  The supermarket boats take credit cards and even had an ATM on board!


One of the many supermarket boats


Yet another spectacular anchorage


In addition to the supermarket boats, there were also local vendors of gözleme, sarongs and t-shirts, bread and pastries and ice creams.  Tad made the error of buying a couple of ice creams one day when he found out that they cost AUD $5 apiece!  The young man justified the cost by saying that the fuel for his motor boat was expensive!

As the distances are not great between anchorages and we were interested to see what Göçek had to offer.  There is a great anchorage area at the head of the bay with shallow water, sand bottom but usually fairly crowded.  The prevailing afternoon winds put you onto  a lee shore, but the holding is so good and the winds rarely more than 20 knots so it’s not really a concern.  There are three or four marinas, but the quoted cost for our catamaran was obscene so we did not even consider it – and there was really no need in any case as even if we could not anchor in the bay, we could anchor fairly close by and dinghy into the town quay for a visit if necessary.

Göçek is a fairly unique town by Turkish standards – at least from what we could see based on the numerous other places in Turkey that we visited.  It’s almost as though it was constructed for the tourism/yachting industry.  It’s modern, clean, tidy and consists almost entirely of restaurants, shops, chandleries, charter companies and a few supermarkets (advertising provisioning services) and fresh fruit and veggie vendors.  Upmarket shops with upmarket prices but cute nonetheless and this was not our last visit to the town.  We bought a few fresh produce items and looked in the shops but did not linger.  It was time to head to our next anchorage in this fascinating area.

One of the many forecasting programmes I had been using forecast some stronger northerly winds for the next day and so we decided to seek out appropriate shelter.  We entered Boynuz Bükü to find a lovely bay with a number of inlets.  We dropped our anchor in an inlet close to the restaurant at the head of the bay in very shallow water but were fortunate enough to have an even better anchorage open up when a boat left a nearby inlet.  We were able to tuck ourselves nicely into this inlet, so while there was room for another boat, it was not ideal unless a fairly small monohull.  The water was clear and warm, the breeze light (the strong northerlies never eventuated) and we ended up ‘camping’ here for 3 nights – heavenly!



Delicious kebabs from the "Kebab Hospital" in Göçek 

By this time about two weeks had passed and it was time to ‘pump out’ our holding tanks.  For those of you who are unfamiliar with the term, they are the tanks which hold ‘black water’ or essentially the sewage from the toilets.  Normally, we would store this in the holding tanks and then, when a decent distance off shore, dump it in the ocean.  We are careful to only allow what has passed through our digestive tracts to enter the toilet and holding tanks – the toilet paper and any other waste is disposed of in plastic garbage bags in the appropriate rubbish bins ashore.  In Turkey, any dumping of ‘black’ or even ‘gray’ water (the latter is from showers, washing dishes, etc.) within Turkish waters is forbidden and they are particularly strict in the ‘protected’ zone of the Göçek Korfezi.  For this reason, when you check in to Turkey, you purchase a Blue Card – it’s a credit card-sized plastic magnetic card which electronically records every time you pump out and how much has been pumped out.  By regularly going through this process you theoretically satisfy the coast guard and the authorities and avoid being fined.  The theory of this whole process is admirable – the practicality is somewhat ridiculous.  There are hundreds, if not thousands of Turkish gulets (see previous) ferrying hundreds of thousands of people everyday on day trips as well as longer stays, who never go near the pump out stations simply because there are not enough of them.  This is a rule which targets yachties and motor cruisers only.  Now pumping out is not expensive – we never paid more than TL 25 (about AUD $13) and only did it every couple of weeks.  The ridiculous thing was that we usually ‘dumped’ our holding tanks when offshore (and hopefully out of sight of any coast guards) and just filled our tanks with seawater to be pumped out – the other ridiculous thing was that the total volume of our holding tanks is about 140L but we registered anything from 220L to 120L when we pumped out at various locations!

So we headed into Göçek and Club Marine for our pump out – there was a bit of a queue as it was a Sunday and a few boats were either headed out or headed back.  The queue was not for the pumping out but for fuel which was on the same pier, and of course the two boats in front of us were large motor cruisers with huge fuel tanks!  Nevertheless, we finally completed our pump out and headed back into Göçek for provisioning and to try and find a mechanic as we had been having problems with our anchor windlass.

The deep water and the length of anchor chain we were using seemed to be tripping the anchor windlass overload, and we would suddently lose power in the middle of raising the anchor.  In very little or no wind, with no boats around, this was not a problem but we didn’t feel comfortable continuing on with it like this.  We tried to contact both our F-P agent as well as the company that manufactures the windlass to see if it would be a warranty issue, but had very little luck with that (nothing happens quickly when you want answers on a warranty issue!).  So we decided to find a mechanic that would take a look and hopefully be able to fix it.

We did find a mechanic who duly removed the windlass and took it back to his shop to be ‘fixed’ and promised to return the next day to reinstall it, so we stayed the night at anchor in the bay and enjoyed a tasty meal ashore.  In spite of the proximity to the shore and restaurants we passed a quiet night (fortunately

Göçek is not a party town) anchored in the bay.  The next morning, our friendly mechanic showed up with our windlass, cleaned and with new ‘brushes’ which apparently needed replacing – he did provide us with the old ones to demonstrate that his work was indeed necessary, and after re-installing the apparatus, we played at raising and lowering the anchor repeatedly without problem.  Admittedly the depth at this stage was only 3m but we did let out practically 50m of chain to see if the windlass would struggle but it did not.  We then got the shock of our lives when he happily announced that the bill was EUR 200 for the ‘brushes’ and EUR 200 for the labour!  Needless to say there was no way we were going to pay that – labour costs in Turkey are not that high and we looked up the cost of the ‘brushes’ online and they would have been a maximum of EUR 100.  We were also rather cross as the windlass was still under warranty and we were unable to reach either our F-P agent OR a windlass representative in Turkey that might have assisted us.  In the end, we agreed to EUR 100 total (which was still probably more than what we should have paid) and told the mechanic that Tad would have to go ashore to the ATM to get the funds as we did not carry that kind of money aboard.  I also gave the mechanic a couple of little souvenir gifts from Australia which appeared to appease the glum face he had when we told him we wouldn’t give him any more money.

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