Saturday, 27 June 2015

GREECE - the mainland and the Gulf of Amvrakia

One of the suggestions we had received from our fellow Helia owners was to open up the engines and rev them hard for about 10 minutes every month or so.  We had in fact never done this, so decided to try it on our way to the Levkas Canal – the water was smooth and there was not much wind and we got both engines up to 2700 rpm for about 10 minutes and made a top speed of over 8 knots!  Fun while it lasted but you wouldn’t want to do it for long.

We arrived at the start of the canal, first built in the 7th century BC and gradually rebuilt several times by the Romans, Byzantines and most recently by the Greeks with a little help from the British.  It is not very wide and only 6m deep at the deepest points so not made for large boats. At Levkas Town there is a floating bridge which swings open on the hour (more or less, depending on the bridge operator; we heard one frantic skipper call on VHF 16 at 11:20am to open the bridge as he had an appointment on the other side!) and the boats file through – first the southbound boats, followed by the northbound boats.  There are a couple of large barges along the quay on the northern side which makes for an exciting zig-zagging through a rather narrow channel.  We were lucky that the wind was not blowing too strongly at the time we entered as it was a pretty tight squeeze for Bisou!

Out the other side and we were in open water for the first time in a week.  The wind was blowing sufficiently to put up the genoa but as it was only a short distance to get to Preveza we decided to be lazy and not put up the mainsail.  We still managed to get close to 6 knots just with the genoa and one engine practically idling.

The approach to the Preveza channel is interesting – the markers begin quite far out as there are shoals in the area, but the markers have obviously not been maintained.  They badly needed painting and one wonders whether the lights work at night?  Still, together with Ray (our chart plotter) and visually sighting the markers, we made our way into the channel with 25 knot winds howling behind us.

We motored towards Preveza taking a look at the town quay as we went past and anchored just north of the town in an area with other yachts.  Once we got Bisou settled down and locked up (you never know how secure an anchorage is from a theft perspective) we took the dinghy ashore to explore Preveza.

For a Saturday afternoon, this sleepy town/village seemed to have very little going on – very few people around, most of the shops closed and just the restaurants and tavernas looking somewhat alive.  We did locate a very well-stocked supermarket just behind the quay and bought a few items to pad out our supplies, including a delicious watermelon.

On the way back to the boat, we stopped for a ‘gyro’ (Greek ‘sharwarma’ or ‘donner kebab’ – very yummy, filling and cheap) and the inevitable ice cream.  These late snack-lunches fill us up so well we often feel no need for dinner, except for a shake or some fruit.

Happily both our dinghy and Bisou were exactly where and how we left them; we also discovered, to our delight, that we had television reception and that the BBC World Service was one of the stations we could connect with.  Not having seen a newspaper for several days it was a treat to be able to munch on some juicy watermelon and watch the news before retiring that night.

The next morning we made our way by dinghy across the bay to Cleopatra Marina – the Preveza area is host to three marinas all lined up in a row, and on the opposite side of the bay to Preveza, but right beside Aktion airport.  The reason for the visit to Cleopatra was to have a look around at their facilities and make a decision as to whether it was a suitable place to leave Bisou for the winter.  Because of her width there are not many places that have a travelift/crane/tractor that is large enough to haul a catamaran of Bisou’s size, but some friends had left their Helia 44 here last winter and were please with the services. Robin had obtained a quote from them which seemed very reasonable, particularly when compared with quotes from Turkish marinas, and so we thought we would check it out.  Being a Sunday, not much was open but we had a good chat with the girl at the front office and walked around the marina. The storage area was huge and Tad was very impressed with the equipment being used to haul boats.  We decided to come back later in the week to finalise a contract and speak with the people who would be involved in us leaving the boat over winter (not there on a Sunday).

Surveying the chart of the Gulf of Amvrakia, and encouraged by fellow sailors’ accounts of the area we decided to spend the next few days exploring this vast inland sea.  Off we set, hoisted the sails and planned a course that would take us in the direction of Vonitsa.

For the second time this season, we sailed solidly just for fun – yes, we were headed in a particular direction, but with no fixed schedule we could take our time getting there.  As it happens (and as it does every afternoon in this part of the Mediterranean) the wind blows up starting about noon.  By 15:00pm the wind is usually blowing 20-25 knots from the West or Northwest, peaking by 17:00pm.  By 18:30pm it starts to drop off finally slowing right down by sunset (about 21:00pm at the moment).  So we took advantage and sailed almost right into the secluded bay that we would anchor in for the night. Fortunately many of the anchorages are surrounded by hills which help to dampen the wind somewhat and with no swell we are usually quite comfortable.

That night, with only two other boats on the other side of the bay, we had a quiet evening with lots of stars.  The water in the Gulf is not that beautiful aqua blue that we had with the sandy bottom earlier in the week, but it’s warmer and still very swimmable.

Monday morning we motored past Vonitsa and anchored in a large bay to the east of an island joined to the mainland by a causeway and bridge.  Once we had Bisou anchored, we took the dinghy into town to explore.  There is a large  17th century Venetian castle/fortress that overlooks the town and we climbed up the beautifully laid path (polished limestone pavers) to the fortress to get a view over the town and the bay.  It was a warm morning but we were the only people up there.  We walked all over the fortress walls and around the buildings imagining what these remains could tell us of the battles and lives of those who had lived here long ago.

We also wandered through Vonitsa which was a cute little town – lots of tavernas/restaurants along the waterfront but not much in the back streets.  A cute little marina, a fairly well-laid out town quay and a nicely maintained pebble beach to the east of the town and that was Vonitsa!  Tad found a quaint little bakery that baked their bread in a wood-fired oven and we bought a still-warm loaf to take back to the boat for lunch.

The afternoon was a lazy one with paddling the kayak, swimming and reading our Kindles on the trampoline.  Such bliss!

Tuesday morning we went back into Vonitsa to supplement our tomato and watermelon rations and then headed over to the next bay to the east of last night’s anchorage.  The journey barely took an hour sailing the whole way (we went across to the north side of the Gulf and back to make the trip longer) but we were pleasantly surprised by the small bay just around the headland.  There were a couple of villas and a herd of sheep in a field which made for a lovely pastoral setting. Further down the bay we could see more yachts and a caravan park, and although the wind came up rather strongly later in the afternoon, we were happy where we were.
Wednesday we decided to try and get to the lee of a small island in the middle of the Gulf that had a lagoon in the middle of it.  It looked rather nice and peaceful but as the water was shallow in the area we had to get there in the morning while the water was flat and the light was good from the sun to be able to spot submerged rocks.  It was disappointing to find another yacht already anchored where we wanted to be so we moved around to another bay just beside.  One thing we have found here in the Gulf is that the ‘beaches’ which look inviting through our binoculars often tend to be dirty (lots of plastic bottles, and other flotsam and jetsam washed up from storms and the strong winds) and pebbly.  There are also LOTS of sea urchins everywhere so care must be taken when stepping ashore from a swim or off the kayak. We always wear sturdy reef-walker shoes or Robin also wears her dive booties when she wants to go snorkeling with her fins.  The sea urchins are small and a reddish colour, and the spines are not as sharp and hard as the black sea urchins’ spines but you wouldn’t want to tread on them in bare feet!



View from the top of Vonitsa Castle looking Northeast


Small church on the island east of Vonitsa


View from Vonitsa Castle looking Northwest

As the wind came up in the afternoon, much more strongly than predicted (another ‘usual’ that we have found annoying!) we moved back into the bay with the other yacht, trying to anchor a discrete distance from him, but mostly to avoid the swell that was creeping around the head of the island.  That night the wind calmed once again (thankfully) for a peaceful night's sleep.

The next day we set off early for Preveza to refuel the boat at Cleopatra Marina and make arrangements to leave Bisou there for the winter.

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